[Mnemuth]

Which carbotech pads did you have?

I have XP12's on the rear and had XP12's on the front. I have to say that at no time did I notice any fade, even when the brakes were clearly overheated. I normally would do a cool down lap but wanted to push as hard as possible over the 25 minute sessions to test the ducts.

I think the ducts improved the cooling to the brakes. However, it is not quite to the point where I can hammer the brakes for an entire 25 minute session without pad degradation. And keep in mind that these pads are rated to 1,000 degrees C.

I have two options at this point. First, I can look into using the area on either side of the intercooler for a 4" duct set up and leave the side vents for cooling the engine, transmission, and transfer case.

Second, I have purchased a water injection system that I can use to either inject water straight into the center of the rotors or stick with the ducts I have and spray the incoming air with water to reduce the temperature of the air cooling the rotors.

Obviously, I could do 4" ducts and water cooling together.

As a side note, I checked the air flow through the rotors in the paddock when I had the blowers running. It got me to thinking about the seal between the OEM heat shield and the rotor itself. I might be able to gain some improvement through building custom shields that fit more closely to the rotors and do not let as much air escape.

 

[Mash]

I would do water cooling for the rotors inlet. It works for GTR. Why it wouldn't work for Evo. And I would skip ducts + injection in the air - that's a waste of time imho. From plain simple math water in the rotors at speed can't do anything wrong if you're not flooding them completely.

I have no idea how you can route 4inch ducts there. I didn't found a route even for 3 without heavy bending and finally it didn't worked.

And I still thinking about diesel turbo for wastegates and 1-2 inch pressurized pipes to push air under pressure in the rotor center inlets.

 

[Mnemuth]

I would do water cooling for the rotors inlet. It works for GTR. Why it wouldn't work for Evo. And I would skip ducts + injection in the air - that's a waste of time imho. From plain simple math water in the rotors at speed can't do anything wrong if you're not flooding them completely.

I have no idea how you can route 4inch ducts there. I didn't found a route even for 3 without heavy bending and finally it didn't worked.

And I still thinking about diesel turbo for wastegates and 1-2 inch pressurized pipes to push air under pressure in the rotor center inlets.

I have been thinking along the same lines. I figure I'll attempt the water injection first and also think about how to get more airflow to the rotor.

The kit I bought looks as follows.

It has a pressure accumulator, pump, solenoid actuated valve, and spray nozzles (among other parts). I'll be needing metal spray nozzles and will likely plumb the thing in -4 hard lines where possible and race hose elsewhere.

I plan to use the windshield wiper reservoir for the tank.

 

[Mash]

I have been thinking along the same lines. I figure I'll attempt the water injection first and also think about how to get more airflow to the rotor.

The kit I bought looks as follows.

It has a pressure accumulator, pump, solenoid actuated valve, and spray nozzles (among other parts). I'll be needing metal spray nozzles and will likely plumb the thing in -4 hard lines where possible and race hose elsewhere.

I plan to use the windshield wiper reservoir for the tank.

If you want to rely on water injection, withstand 25 minutes non stop, and use it during hot day, I assume that you going to use about 4-6gal of water to have around 2x heat extraction power, so I would suggest to plan using something in the trunk for tests. Another problem is potential overcool. My plan was to use IR temperature sensor pointed at visible part of brake rotor and do simple triggering controller to pump water when temperature is above certain point and OBD speed is relatively high. That kit might work, but I'm sure that high pressure is not required - drops from simple thin metal tubes will atomize in a moment of touching rotor at speed.