[Murlo26]

Well, if I keep my car I think I am going down this route

I won't make it quite as light as yours as you removed some stuff I would keep, but if I keep the car, I would hope for around 3200 lbs or so.

 

[Murlo26]

Unless you really mess up the distribution, less weight is rarely a bad thing.

A lighter car will always handle better than a fat ass one. Sure if you made the distribution 70/30 then you might screw it up but I don't think doing what Chet did will make an impact and if anything the lighter car will handle better.

 

[Murlo26]

Which bars? I must remove Pics of them or where they are?

 

[Murlo26]

Gotcha, I'll take a looksy.

 

[Murlo26]

have you gotten aftermarket seats?

I need new seats! Can't decide though...

Something light is all I really care about and with a bit of adjustment. I am guessing this is a big ass weight saver.

 

[Murlo26]

screw fancy, ease of use and less weight for the win

The only thing I would've tried to do different is angle a bit towards the driver if it was easy enough, otherwise that is great. Simple and effective.

 

[Murlo26]

Gotta pay to play i guess

 

[Murlo26]

I don't want it, lol.

 

[Murlo26]

He could get it lighter with dry carbon trunk, hood, carbon doors, replace the glass with lexan, swap the brembos for STM brake kits, run a 15 inch wheel etc. it wouldn't be hard to get the car down to 2500

It's not easy, thats for sure but can be done. I think both Gates and AMS had theirs that low. But AMS acid dipped the frame and built all sorts of custom shit lol.

 

[Murlo26]

Until there are proven gains and they're reasonably priced like the 8/9 I don't see anyone actually using sheet metal intake manifolds

The X intake mani is better than the 8/9 which was a good one already. So beyond porting the stock mani its tough to gain a lot above that without spending a grip load on it like the SSP one (which is still an unknown in my opinion).

I think a port job on the IM is the best way to go.

 

[Murlo26]

You can buy aluminum bolts. You can also buy plastic bolts in PVC, Nylon, PTFE, Fiberglass, etc. There aren't a ton of low load locations where they will help, but some aluminum bolts might be able to be used in the engine bay for accessories. Most of those can be taken out altogether.

I replaced all the bolts we were comfortable with on my Honda with Ti and some aluminum and we came up with 5 lbs over the entire car. It cost well over $1000. I felt robbed!

$1000 for 5 lbs...easier to eat less and take a big poop

When you get to bolt replacement that is full race car build, just not worth it on a street car in my opinion.

There is a fine line on weight being worth it to take out. At some point you mind as well switch to a lighter platform if you care that much about weight. Or make more power, but more power isn't as beneficial as less weight for sure.

I am in the 15-20lb weight savings range, I will spend money to save that much but it better not be super expensive lol. I like pulling out unnecessary stuff, like gutting trunk, wing etc, then new seats, remove audio if wanted, light brakes, light wheel/tire, light exhaust system and driveshaft...I am more of a rotating mass guy but its all good.

I think Chris's car, the 10sec stock turbo one is about as far as I would go with the X, he even went further with that kirkey seat than I would.

Like I said, at some point it just makes more sense to start with something lighter.

 

[Murlo26]

http://greddy-usa.blogspot.com/2010/10/new-greddy-cz4a-large-front-mount.html
This is what I bought...expensive though