buy it and drive around with it for a while before you get tuned. youll know in a week if its gonna throw codes or leak. But im sure it will work great.

 

I think with all these valves if they do not have reference port like the stock valve they typical modulate worse on throttle changes but hold boost much better.

I have no idea who even produces a valve with a reference port like the stock one is designed.

 

I think forge's lineup of bov/dv products does, doesn't it?

 

One should note that they say that you can use it without the spring, as the spring just regulates how far it opens.

 

Bumpage

 

Doesn't the Synapse (synchronic) blow off valve use a refference port?

 

The 1st version, but not the newer one.

Doesn't the Synapse (synchronic) blow off valve use a refference port?

 

damn... so your saying I am going to have to look for an older one then..

 

You can still buy the older one but in universal application, the evo specific kit only has the new version.

 

Just ordered my Perrin Signature BOV so I guess when I get it I'll do a review for the rest of you.

 

Sweet! I'm really interested.

 

Looks like a cross breed between the SSQV and the Synchronic: full solid piston/valve with a single vacuum port. I like it.

Now you got me curious... if the review is good, I might snatch one up as well.

 

I'm pretty sure I know how this valve will work... like every other valve works beside the stock one.

 

I have a Forge RS on my car and it works just fine.

 

Never worked fine on my car... nor any type of gradient. You must live on the salt flats...

Car threw a limp mode p1241 not matter what setting that valve was on soft/hard or anything in between.

 

keep us posted with the review..tia

 

First post updated

 

How has the Perrin BOV been holding up?

I'm more looking for how it drives with part throttle modulation.

 

x2

 

I think part throttle is where most BOV's fail. I know on the VIII, the Forge had all sorts of issues and made it a PITA. I will say the APS (twin vent) and HKS re-ric'd seemed to work the best. I want to say the APS twin vent almost seemed faster reacting...I don't think APS makes much for the X, do they?

 

I picked up a APS Twin Vent... however they are all on back order for 6-8 weeks. LOL So it will be a while before I review it on the X.

 

You have to make it modulate, but I am running it as a pull style where boost holds it closed. You do have to run it on the least amount of spring tension so you don't get the modulation. Here recently I dropped in a lighter spring I had from a Forge WG and now you have to try and make it modulate.

 

i read somthing about you can run it without the spring. is this true.

 

Have you / would you try it with out the spring?

I just don't see how running it without a spring would work.

 

i just got my coto sports bov in the mail. we'll see if it works as well as LVS says. it should.

 

i just got my coto sports bov in the mail. we'll see if it works as well as LVS says. it should.

I sent you a PM a week or so ago asking how to order via japanparts, did you get it? Thanks!

 

Have you / would you try it with out the spring?

 

Like Hollywood said how would it work without the spring? And if it could what would that do?

 

To my understanding the only job of the spring is to keep the valve closed, but the way the OP has his installed the air pressure in the intercooler pipes is keeping it shut, so the spring isn't doing too much. Now when the valve opens, it has to compress the spring, making it harder to open. So I guess you might get faster lift without the spring, but I have no idea.

 

The spring pressure really isn't enough to keep it closed, the spring is just to send the shuttle back down when on vacuum so boost doesn't pin it open. If you install it the other way its supposed to be the same pressure on both sides, there by holding it closed.

 

The spring is to hold the valve closed at idle. They say you can run the BOV without a spring since boost pressure will hold the valve closed when the throttle is open, but at idle it would pull wide open without a spring. On any adjustable BOV, you tighten the spring down just enough to hold the BOV closed at idle, that way it stays as responsive as it can be when it needs to open.

 

Exactly what he said. On the greddy type-S, you tightened the bolt down to the point where no leaks at idle and put the re-circ back on. Those old gredfdy type-s purple valves were sooo good. The new type RS junk has crappy diaphrams and doesn't work worth a damn...

 

Yeah, without the spring, the car would feel way more unresponsive when not in boost.

 

FYI - the new Synapse BOV has the port C reference built into the flange now. So one less vacuum line to plumb. Also the APS BOV avoids the fluttering issues because it is actually slow reacting and therefore dampens out the part throttle pressure modulation that you hear as flutter on other BOV. I used to use the APS and the piston slides on a rubber O-ring which effectively slows the piston down.

 

Also the APS BOV avoids the fluttering issues because it is actually slow reacting and therefore dampens out the part throttle pressure modulation that you hear as flutter on other BOV. I used to use the APS and the piston slides on a rubber O-ring which effectively slows the piston down.

That's actually backwards. When the valve is slow reacting is when you hear the fluttering. The air backs up and surges the turbo for a split second before the BOV actually cracks open. If you have a fast reacting BOV, it'll open immediately with no delay and no time to surge the turbo, hence, no fluttering.

 

the new synapse is sick