[chetrickerman]

how do we drain the coolant? Isn't there a bolt to drain the engine block too? At least, that's what i've had to do with my prior cars. I thought it wasnt enough to just drain the radiator.

How many litres / gallons of coolant will drain from a system if it is full?

I'm pretty sure the OEM coolant is a eth glyc base, but does anyone know if it contains phosphates, or if it lacks silicates? A lot of the Jap cooling systems do both to reduce corrosion, but I believe Peak and most domestic fluids do neither.

Any suggestions on a good coolant for someone who tracks occasionally, has cold winters, and only wants to flush every 15-20k miles/2 years? Might just be best to use the OE to be safe unless there's a reason to use something else for performance reasons.

just consolidating all of these questions as i am interested in answers for all of them

 

[blk-majik]

I did a new radiator install today. Here's some answers:

1) To drain - there's a plug on the bottom of the radiator, passenger side, on the front. you have to take the bumper and some of the undertray off. There's also a sleeve on the engine and on the turbo which you should drain via drain plugs. The turbo might not be worth the effort if you don't put off a change too long, since you'll likely have to remove the turbo to install it. I ended up disconnecting the radiator hose from the right of the fill cap and just flushing it via that hose with water and some compressed air to try to force as much out as I could.

2) 2 gallons. 7.5L to be exact. Mine only ended up taking about 1.6G though

3) I just used 50/50 Peak. I never got a good answer, but since I changed the radiator and the hoses anyway, and the OEM stuff seemed to leave a lot of corrosion goup, I figured it can't be much worse

 

[nystc23]

sub'd

 

[jojobanks]

I did a new radiator install today. Here's some answers:

1) To drain - there's a plug on the bottom of the radiator, passenger side, on the front. you have to take the bumper and some of the undertray off. There's also a sleeve on the engine and on the turbo which you should drain via drain plugs. The turbo might not be worth the effort if you don't put off a change too long, since you'll likely have to remove the turbo to install it. I ended up disconnecting the radiator hose from the right of the fill cap and just flushing it via that hose with water and some compressed air to try to force as much out as I could.

2) 2 gallons. 7.5L to be exact. Mine only ended up taking about 1.6G though

3) I just used 50/50 Peak. I never got a good answer, but since I changed the radiator and the hoses anyway, and the OEM stuff seemed to leave a lot of corrosion goup, I figured it can't be much worse

I dunno about removing your bumper cover to drain your radiator... Are you talking about removing the whole radiator? Your coolant drain valve is usually at the lowest point of your cooling system, so you shouldn't have to do anything other than just opening that up and taking off your coolant cap to drain everything.

For flushing your cooling system, remove your thirmostat, start your car and turn your heater on, and take a water hose and spray it through the inlet side of your cooling system(pay attention to your thermostat when you take it out, whichever way your spring compresses is the direction of your coolant flow.). Keep dumping water in and wait for clean water to start coming out the other side. Once you're satisfied with the cleanliness, shut off the water and turn off the car. The water pump will pump most of the pure water out of the system once you stop putting water in, then you just put everything back togeather and fill er up.

As far as getting air out of your system, just leave the cap off and let it run the bubbles out. Refill with coolant as necessary as when air comes out your coolant level will go down.

 

[jojobanks]

As far as how much/what kind of coolant to use, just look in your owner's manual. It'll have all that info in it (I'd just post it but I don't feel like getting my manual out of my car and looking it up right now.). Only use OEM recommended coolant/mixture. There's no point other than making problems for yourself to use anything else.

 

[chetrickerman]

Good info

 

[Yxd68]

Acccording to the Service Manual, it looks to be slightly more complicated than what's posted above but not much. I suspect step 21 is incorrect - s/b Reinstall rather than remove. It
specifies long-life coolant and 7.9 Qts. total capacity:

1.Remove the engine room under cover front A (RH). (Refer to GROUP 51, Under Cover P.51-16)
WARNING
When removing the radiator cap, use care to avoid contact with hot coolant or steam. Place a shop towel over the cap and turn the cap counterclockwise a little to let the pressure escape through the vinyl tube. After relieving the steam pressure, remove the cap by slowly turning it counterclockwise.
2.Drain the water from the radiator, heater core and engine after unplugging the radiator drain plug and removing the radiator cap.
3.Remove the engine room under cover front B. (Refer to GROUP 51, Under Cover P.51-16)
4.Remove the air cleaner intake hose. (Refer to GROUP 15, Air Cleaner P.15-10)
5.Remove the turbocharger compressor bracket. (Refer to GROUP 15, Exhaust Manifold and Turbocharger Assembly P.15-16)
6.Disconnect the turbocharger water return hose and drain the coolant in the water jacket.
7.Remove the radiator condenser tank and drain the coolant.
8.Drain the coolant then clean the path of the coolant by injecting water into the radiator from the radiator cap area.
9.Securely tighten the drain plug of the radiator.
10.Reinstall the radiator condenser tank.

Do not use alcohol or methanol anti-freeze or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol anti-freeze. The use of an improper anti-freeze can cause corrosion of the aluminum components.
11.By referring to the section on coolant, select an appropriate concentration for safe operating temperature within the range of 30 to 60%. Use special tool MB991871 to refill the engine coolant up to the top of the radiator port. A convenient mixture is a 50% water and 50% antifreeze solution [freezing point: −31°C (−23.8 °F)].
Recommended antifreeze: Long Life Antifreeze Coolant or an equivalent
Quantity: 7.5 dm3 (7.9 quarts)
NOTE:
For how to use special tool (MB991871), refer to its manufacturer’s instructions.
12.Tighten the radiator cap securely.
13.Remove the radiator condenser tank cap, and add the engine coolant up to the "FULL" line.
14.Turn the A/C switch to OFF position to start the engine and warm up until the cooling fan operates.
NOTE:
This step opens the thermostat fully.
15.Rev the engine several times and then stop it. Check that there are no coolant leaks.
16.Remove the radiator cap with the engine cool, and then refill the engine coolant up to the top of the radiator port.
17.Tighten the radiator cap securely.
CAUTION
Do not overfill the radiator condenser tank.
18.Remove the radiator condenser tank cap, and add the engine coolant up to the "FULL" line.
19.Install the turbocharger compressor bracket. (Refer to GROUP 15, Exhaust Manifold and Turbocharger Assembly P.15-16)
20.Install the air cleaner intake hose. (Refer to GROUP 15, Air

21.Remove the engine room under cover front A and engine room under cover front A (RH). (Refer to GROUP 51, Under Cover P.51-16)

 

[chetrickerman]

Good info, just need some pictures to go along with the words

 

[Yxd68]

Good info, just need some pictures to go along with the words

Look in the [service] manual - it's posted (a link to) here on this site. Search for "Coolant Change". Pictures and all.

 

[blk-majik]

You probably dont' have to remove the bumper. You might be able to just remove the front passenger side undertray. However, it might be difficult to get the drain plug out, and when you do, you'll end up with coolant all over your bumper. Taking the bumper off is a lot easier than it sounds.

Check the radiator hose that feeds near the LICP (bottom driver side). Unhook it after all the fluid is drained and check for sludge. With the factory setup, I had a bunch of gunk in there =/ Sort of makes me question the OEM coolant.

 

[chetrickerman]

Look in the [service] manual - it's posted (a link to) here on this site. Search for "Coolant Change". Pictures and all.

done. Thanks!

You probably dont' have to remove the bumper. You might be able to just remove the front passenger side undertray. However, it might be difficult to get the drain plug out, and when you do, you'll end up with coolant all over your bumper. Taking the bumper off is a lot easier than it sounds.

Check the radiator hose that feeds near the LICP (bottom driver side). Unhook it after all the fluid is drained and check for sludge. With the factory setup, I had a bunch of gunk in there =/ Sort of makes me question the OEM coolant.

also good info.

 

[Mr. Evo X]

Bring back from the dead. Just to clarify. Flush the radiator and empty the coolant reservoir tank. Than fill the coolant reservoir tank only? Not in the radiator? I was confused with the turbo part. Can someone chime in please.

This is what I was going to do.
Flush out the radiator
Empty reservoir tank
Fill radiator and tank with water
Start car and blast the heater till car is at warm temp.
Shut car off and reflush radiator and tank
Fill the radiator and tank with coolant
Start car and blast the heater till car is at warm temp.
Top off the tank if low and done.

 

[illariskustvo]

If your standing in front of the car facing it just behind the bumper on the bottom left of the radiator there is a drain for the coolant. Its a little winged plastic piece. When you unscrew it the coolant will drain just underneath it. Just be careful not to undo it all the way it will gush out all over the inside of your bumper making one hell of a glycol mess.

As far as what to put back in, use the GREEN coolant it works much better at keeping deposits out. Also don't use just regular tap water for the 50/50 mix. Get some distilled purified water.

I used tap water mix when I did my coolant change. Should I be worried?

 

[evo101]

Bring back from the dead. Just to clarify. Flush the radiator and empty the coolant reservoir tank. Than fill the coolant reservoir tank only? Not in the radiator? I was confused with the turbo part. Can someone chime in please.

This is what I was going to do.
Flush out the radiator
Empty reservoir tank
Fill radiator and tank with water
Start car and blast the heater till car is at warm temp.
Shut car off and reflush radiator and tank
Fill the radiator and tank with coolant
Start car and blast the heater till car is at warm temp.
Top off the tank if low and done.

that is perfect. yes you need to drain and fill both reservoir and rad.

 

[evo101]

I used tap water mix when I did my coolant change. Should I be worried?

lol i suppose but not a big deal. tap water is not distilled and contains ions of calcium potassium... from the cities tap water for keeping it from spoiling/smelling bad. it can rust the inside over your block. just refresh with coolant and your home free. no harm done.

 

[Mr. Evo X]

Ok awesome. But fill radiator and tank right? Not just the tank

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[bigmiketino]

This is how I do my flush everyday when I get home from work I let the car cool, never open coolant when hot...lol..I open coolant drain and fill up a one gallon container. Then add one gallon fresh coolant. Do that three or four times and boom coolant flush....

 

[Treyzian]

Honestly, I just use OEM coolant for daily driving, then distilled water/water wetter for track days. Keeps the engine happy, and the water/water wetter combo is great for keeping temps down at the track.

You can just use water/water wetter for DD, but you need to make sure that your car doesn't experience below freezing temperatures where the water/water wetter may freeze.

When flushing/changing the coolant, fill the radiator until it's full, then fill the overflow tank until it's 3/4 up to the full line. Then, use your hand to squeeze the radiator hoses to get as much air bubbles as you can out. Then run the car with the heater on, while squeezing the hoses. Top off as necessary.

 

[Yxd68]

Doesn't matter if the "heater is on" or not. Coolant still flows full time through the heater core. Coolant flow valves to regulate interior heat went away about 40 years ago, just like manual chokes.

All modern climate control systems (like from 1980 and newer) use air flow across the heater core to regulate interior heat - not the flow of the liquid coolant through the core.

 

[illariskustvo]

lol i suppose but not a big deal. tap water is not distilled and contains ions of calcium potassium... from the cities tap water for keeping it from spoiling/smelling bad. it can rust the inside over your block. just refresh with coolant and your home free. no harm done.

Thanks for the tip, by refresh you mean add some more coolant?