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Very informative and detailed write up OP!plus cudos to all the other memebers on the loads more of information provided in this thread!

but i got a big problem unfortunately...while removing the drain plugs seems like one was overtorqued and wouldn't come out for anything...just kept spinning and spinning...had to eventually pry it out while carefully loosening it and needless to say this was a real bitch to get out lol
Upon closer inspection both the threading on the bolt and drain plug have been completely wrung out

so wanted to to know if it's ok if i tap and die this drain plug to use with a bigger bolt?

Also found this video of a guy showing how to repair a stripped out aluminium pan from a honda without having to tap and dir but using a bolt of same circumference but longer...seems much easier faster but don't know if it'll hold up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaNls0uuOUs

so what would you guys advise?what would be the best and permanent solution?tap and die then using a wider bolt?or is there any other method u guys think would be the best..don't wanna mess up anything as i dont wanna be driving around and always thinking in the back of my mind that this bolt could come loose at anytime.
 
I did a fluid change last year and I'm only at about 21,000 so I don't want to do a drain and fill just yet, but I did replace the filter last night. A little fluid came out and I'm wanting to pour in a little fluid in and open up the check plug to make sure I'm at the right amount. Can I pour it in with the vehicle cold?

Also any advice on how to get to the check plug? It's in a really difficult spot and I'm not sure it's possible to get a torque wrench on it. I'm assuming an 8mm allen wrench is the tool that does the job?
 
To the OP's original question:
As with anything that has stripped, tap and die w/ a larger bolt is normal practice. I'd be concerned with the internals surrounding that drain hole -- make sure you will not damage anything while getting the hole repaired and get all the shavings out.

Another method is to use a heli-coil or similar. Usually, you'll end up with stronger threads.

I did a fluid change last year and I'm only at about 21,000 so I don't want to do a drain and fill just yet, but I did replace the filter last night. A little fluid came out and I'm wanting to pour in a little fluid in and open up the check plug to make sure I'm at the right amount. Can I pour it in with the vehicle cold?

Also any advice on how to get to the check plug? It's in a really difficult spot and I'm not sure it's possible to get a torque wrench on it. I'm assuming an 8mm allen wrench is the tool that does the job?
Yes, you can pour in the fluid while the car is cold. I wasn't aware that there was a check plug? From what I have understood is that you measure the amount you removed and then replace with the same.
 
I did the measure method but always second guessed that it was the correct amount. Since I just put in a new filter I figured I'll add a little more and check the overfill bolt. It's also a good way to check that it was filled correctly from the factory.

Only thing is it is tough to get to and I don't think I can get a torque wrench in there.

Yes, you can pour in the fluid while the car is cold. I wasn't aware that there was a check plug? From what I have understood is that you measure the amount you removed and then replace with the same.
 
So I got the overfill bolt off (pretty difficult and very messy; don't recommend it). My car wasn't exactly level but according to my paint bucket I got about 20 oz of fluid out of the overfill plug.

This has me concerned. I'm considering pouring the same amount of new fluid back in.

Or should I try to relevel it and pour more in and check the overfill bolt?

Anyone have some suggestions?
 
So I got the overfill bolt off (pretty difficult and very messy; don't recommend it). My car wasn't exactly level but according to my paint bucket I got about 20 oz of fluid out of the overfill plug.

This has me concerned. I'm considering pouring the same amount of new fluid back in.

Or should I try to relevel it and pour more in and check the overfill bolt?

Anyone have some suggestions?
Do you have all 4 corners up on jacks or the car on a lift? If it's uneven, DON'T use the overfill bolt hole as a reference. You want to be completely level. Once level, slowly add more fluid in until you see it start coming out the overfill hole. Wait for it to finish coming out then put the bolt back in - Don't add any more fluid at this point. Also, it takes a bit before newly added fluid seems to work through the trans to get to the chamber of the overflow hole, just be warned or it'll start pouring out like it did for me if you're impatient.
 
Since the car wasn't level I decided to pour back in 20oz of (fresh) fluid into the transmission. I'm only at 22,000 miles and I believe I did my first change at 15,000. I'm not sure when I should do another full fluid change.
 
I didn't read all 29 pages.sorry if i duplicate some one else's post.
I used Ford XT-11-QDC fluid for transmission. i think i paid $20 per liter

RAVENOL DCT/DSG Transmission Fluid
has been developed especially for dual clutch transmissions of several manufacturers like
VW/Audi, Ford, Volvo, Chrysler, Dodge, Mitsubishi and others. It is also recommended for use in Dual Clutch Gear DQ-250 (02E) and DQ-500 (0BT)
acc. to VW Part-No. G 052 182 and DL-501 (0B5) acc. to VW Part-No. G 052 529 for S-Tronic of VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda.

NOTE: RAVENOL DCT, DSG is not recommend for just 'topping off' the fluid level in the transmission.
Rather, It is advisable to perform a complete transmission fluid change when 'topping off' or replacing the fluid.

Specifications, Applications, and OE Reference Numbers:

VW/Audi G 052 182 A2
VW/Audi TL 52 182 A2
VW/Audi G 052 529 A2 S-Tronic
VW/Audi TL 52 529 A2 S-Tronic
Ford 1490763
Ford 1490761
Ford WSS-M2C-936-A
Ford WSD-M2C00-D2
Ford XT-11-QDC (USA)
Motorcraft FML-XT-11-QDC
Chrysler 68044345 EA
Volvo 1161838
Volvo 1161839
Volvo MPS6 Powershift oil (1161839)
Mercedes-Benz MB 236.21
Mitsubishi MZ320065
Mitsubishi Dia-Queen SSTF-I
Mitsubishi Dia-Queen SST
BOT 341
Peugeot, Citroen 9734.S2 for DCS6 (Peugeot 4007, Citroen C-Crosser)
Fiat 9.55550-MZ6
BMW DCTF-1
BMW 83220440214
BMW 83222148579
BMW 83222148578
BMW 83222147477
Porsche 0000 043 20
 
Tools needed:
Jack, Jackstands or a lift.
Clip remover tool or a small flathead screwdriver
3/8 ratchet with 9 inches of extension
8mm allen head socket
10mm hex socket
32mm socket and 1/2inch ratchet
Drain pan
People needed: 1, or 2 if you leave your second drain pan out of reach
Parts needed:
2 gallons of diaqueen sst fluid=$150/gallon
1 oem filter=$150
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Time=about 1.5hrs

1: Lift the front of the car and support it with jackstands, unless you have access to a lift.
2: Remove the center lower shield and the drivers lower shield. About 30 small clips pry up on the center button and they release. There are 2 10mm bolts on the drivers side to remove.

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3: Locate the fill hole on top of the transmission, it is an 8mm allen. You will need the 9 inches of extension here. I undo this first to aid in the draining of fluid. It flows quicker and it doesn't gulp gulp on the way out making a mess. If you have a stock air box you will have to remove it.
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4: Remove the three drain plugs, 8mm allen again. I started with the lowest one on the trans thinking it would have the most to drain, I was wrong. Each one had quite a bit in it. I tried catching all of the fluid to measure it. I caught over 5 qts and spilled about 2qts. The service manual says you need just under 6qts on a drain and fill, after doing this I don't agree.
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5: Drain the cooler, this is not necessary but I opted to do it. Locate the lower hose on the cooler slide the clamp back and pull the line off.
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6: Locate the OEM filter, it is on the drivers side, and twist off lefty loosey 32mm socket works very well but you can use a large crescent wrench in a pinch. Install new one righty tighty.
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7: Reinstall removed drain plugs (27ft/lbs) and cooler hose with clamp.
8: Fill transmission from top fill hole. I used 7qts because thats what I removed.
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9: Reinstall fill plug. Double check all of your work, i.e. all drain and fill plugs are torqued and the filter is tight. Also make sure your line is back on the cooler and the clamp is on and tight.
10: Start car and recheck for leaks. I put the car in gear but if you are only on two jackstands don't.
11: Reinstall the lower covers

I changed my fluid at 28k miles the filter was pretty dirty, in hindsight I should have done it at 15k. I just think the first 15k a lot of debris is coming out of the transmission, break-in and such.
Do you have to preform a relearn after you change the sst fluid?
 
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