background

Bought my evo new from Don Herring Mitsubishi in Plano, TX with 4 miles on the ODO.

took less than a month before i wanted more power and ordered a tactrix openport 2.0 + grimspeed 3 port boost controller. from there it escalated quickly.




Here is some other car stuff I have/had going at the time.

2003 Ford Mustang Cobra (drag race car)

2005 Yamaha R6 Raven (stolen)

2007 Triumph Daytona 675 (replacement for the stolen R6)

...and the best for last, our shitbox 1991 4 cyl mustang for LeMons/Chump/WRL:

 

Goals

I've modded and built many cars in my time. I've made a lot of mistakes in my younger days. So, I have one rule for this car: This car will always be a street car.

At the moment it is my daily driver. Depending on how long I keep the car or some of the stuff, down the road I may replace it with a cheap daily, truck, or something cool. If that something cool is expensive, then I might just sell this car. As such, I will try not to have long term goals with the car, just short term and I will not take my car down for long term mods that turn into massive projects.


I would like this car to be mostly comfortable, not stupid noisy, or a rattle trap.


As it stands, my simple goal is for this to be fun on the street and able to participate in regular track days, anywhere from 3-6 or so per year. If I progress through HPDE1-4, I may consider trying to run NASA TT.

 

Pictures

 

reserved 4.

 

reserved 5.

 

How do you like the pilot super sports


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I like them a lot. They are an excellent street tire with ability to still perform respectably on track.

Against the factory yokohama advan a13, they are quieter, better wet performance, and better dry performane (though my experience is 265 vs 245). Couple that with they are cheaper and longer lasting (30,000 mile rated tire), i think it is the best summer/dry weather street daily tire going. The only other tire I would consider is the bridgestone re-11 but i would rather just jump into a set of rivals, rs3, or zII... (which is what i will do for a 2nd set of wheels).

 

This post is called Adventures in Turbo-Land

Alright enough of this basic crap, lets get to the important stuff.

After almost a year of owning the car and being on bolt-ons + e85 I wanted more power. I drove up to Force Performance and purchased a brand new BB FP Red. Then I got home and ordered an AMS downpipe.

I had these parts for about a year and never got around to installing them. I wanted the power but I didn't like the idea of stock frame and to spend another 1K on a Full-Race or Toxic Fab manifold made the investment into the stock frame setup questionable. Plus I was always second guessing myself if I should have gone for the cheaper MHI instead.

Well, scrap all that b/c qwertymess (Dino) AMS 750 turbo kit went up for sale... then it dropped in price. I sold all my stuff and bought his ASAP.

Dino did a great job packing every little thing and sending it my way in 3 boxes. The whole kit is complete. I know Dino ran this kit hard, same thing I plan to do but I took this time to refresh everything while it's off the car.

I sent the turbo back to Precision for tear down and inspection. Precision offered GREAT customer support. They called to report there was nothing wrong with the turbo and it looked great, they replaced one seal which they do everytime they break one down. I told them I was unable to separate the turbine housing which is common. They handled that for me... by putting a new .63 ar housing on along with new bolts. I went ahead and ordered new v-band clamps, oil drain flange gaskets from them while I was at it.

Next up was the 'road-race' [STRIKE]red[/STRIKE] pink TiAL wastegate. I sent that back to TiAL for a cover change, bolts + nuts and new water fittings. Silver was the only color that doesn't fade so here is a before and after.

Last up was the oil drain line. It was awfully crunchy and stiff. I went ahead and cut it open so I could see under the flame guard. I'm glad I did.

I did some research and geeked out over hoses for a while. It is a custom built oil drain hose I had built by Earl's Indy (Indy car supplier). The hose
is Earls Ultra-Flex 650 stainless -8 an with a flame guard (expensive shit!). There is a beautiful hose under that flame guard.

Last up, called Dan @ AMS. Wound up ordering new IC pipes & TiAL BOV just to make the setup complete AMS.

So where I'm at now, I've had everything sitting here for 2+ weeks. Just waiting for a free day to make the trek across the metroplex on a weekday to drop off all the hotside piping to the same local coaters that did the FP and AMS downpipe at the top of this post. Will be getting the manifold, turbine housing, and downpipe along with the heat shielding ceramic coated. I will also be getting the brand new intercooler pipes powder coated.

 

I have never seen an AMS downpipe like that, is that a new version or something?

 

FUEL!

got a radium fuel surge tank and evo X install kit. this is the standard configuration with stock or stock replacement style fuel pressure regulator (as i already have the ams fuel rail and regulator kit).

took it apart just to take a peek. the pump inside a walbro 400 e85 pump, the wiring is the appropriate weatherpack style connector which matches what walbro put on the pump

mocking up fuel filter, going to need someone to build me a smooth radius 180* bend hard line to connect the top of the surge tank with the top of the fuel filter.

 

FUEL ...continued

I've finished assembling the wiring with solder all nice and tidy with mesh jacket and heat-shrinked to size.

The last thing to figure out is if I want to run the stock fuel pump in the main fuel tank or something like the AEM 320 e85 pump, we'll see.
What I do know is with E85, I will not be running the stock fuel filter. Neither the sock at the bottom of the pump nor the white housing it mounts within. I have a replacement for the sock filter, hopefully the stock pump fits in the torque solutions mount.

Currently in the main tank, I am running is a walbro 400 e85 pump in there as well. I'm thinking running two of those pumps would be ridiculous and a huge draw on the system so I will not be doing that.

 

All coming together nicely. Keep it up.

 

What do you have the filter mounted to there? I was going to mount it in the same place, was trying to figure out how to fab up a bracket. Could you post pics of your bracket?

Also I'm just going with one of these lines:

They have one that's 5.41" long with dual 90 degree connectors. I bet that would work perfectly for you!

 

nice, i'll consider that dual 90 hose if i can't get a custom 180 bend done. i'll measure it just to make sure but i can always make it work by re-positioning the bracket.

as far as the mount, i just used a simple metal bracket i had lying around. just drilled a couple of holes and bolted it right up to the back of the surge tank and the fuelab filter mount. this is temporary, the final one will be nicer and will be made when the hose is figured out.

note, the bolt holes on the back of the radium surge tank are M6 x 1.0, it is very shallow so you will need something with like an 8mm length. 10, 12 mm with some washers or spacer will work.

 

Just read through your build thread, love it man.

And great idea on how to mount the bracket. Forgot the surge tank had those mounts on the back of it.

the only issue I'll have is the fact that the FST-R tank sits crooked and 45 degrees off relative to your surge tank. Look at the location of the "radium engineering" decal on the tank on yours versus mine:

Anyway, I'm hoping I can just bend a piece of metal at 45 degrees to straighten it out and mount it the same way, that's a really clever idea. I'm worried it will sit too far forward though (I'm still considering re-installing the oem plastic trunk panels...).

 

thanks!

when you take your surge tank apart, you can re-align it. if you want to really clean it out, you will remove the top and bottom anyways.

why do you think my radium decal faces dead south? mine was the same way but i didnt like it so i took it apart and aligned it. it's the little things right?

 

^^ nice! I just assumed the bottom only attached in one orientation. I'll definitely re-align it when I take it all apart. Thanks!

 

well, dropped the surge tank & filter off after work today to a hose shop recommended by vorshlag. they have stainless steel tubing, -6an hose ends, and 37* sleeves. hopefully it's awesome.

 

done:

 

That engine bay is gorgeous. Holy cow

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thanks man. it will look very different sooner than later.

 

Where and how are you going through the body? Are you using the factory return line?

I am using my evap line as a return line so the system will be -6an across every line.

 

i really need to get a good look underneath the car and see how much room there is to run these lines and make the connections on the top hat, but i'm thinking cut a hole behind the windshield washer fluid, feed the lines through and grommet up the airspace.

either way, im going to run them in car (per radiums install instructions) for a while to test and make sure fuel pressures and stuff stays constant.

yes, i am going to use the factory feed and return line.

 

The factory return line seems to be 1/4" vs the feed at 5/16 or 6an

I am gonna drill bulkead fittings through just to be safe.

 

That's 1/16th of an inch difference. The pressure issue usually has to do with the return mechanism inside the oem fuel tank. As he'd be running the return line to the radium tank, then that shouldn't be an issue. Only if he puts a larger pump in the oem tank will he need to worry about the return line, but even then that doesn't depend at all on the return line from the fpr.

You need to make sure that the oem return line has enough pressure in it or you can run out of fuel at 1/3rd tank. If you drill a second bulkhead fitting, make sure you set it up as a pressure relief valve.

 

yea the stock return line is smallish but i'm not trying to make big power (stock block, clutch) and people seem to have hit 500 hp without changing the fuel lines.

right now my setup has a walbro 400 e85 in tank with the return drilled to 7/64ths with that tiny filter removed. i run the ams rail and regulator setup and have had no issue with fuel pressure.

my radium setup is the same pump though it will flow more fuel (due running that pump with more current) but the return should offer a bit less resistance as well.

 

Your flow from your in tank fuel pump should increase with the addition of the fst because that is a much shorter loop with much less pressure... It does have a similar elevation change though so maybe it won't increase that much. But the increased flow could lead to that fuel return line being a restriction even with the venturi port drilled out. walbro 400 is significantly more powerful then the stock setup.

 

yea i'm not leaving the walbro in tank. either stock pump or aem 320 e85.

 

very nice

 

thanks. it might make contact with the rear seat back so i might have to take the tank apart again and rotate it so the outlet port so it is closer to the rear of the car.

 

yeah, that might be a bit close, I know that wouldn't clear my beatrush rear bulkhead divider. Can you rotate just the top relative to the rest? so that the logo still faces the same direction?

 

the top, bottom and middle are 3 individual parts. you have to rotate the top and bottom in unison as the pump is mounted to the bottom and comes straight up (green fitting). Note for you, when you take your FST apart, you have to removed the nut on the green fitting to fully remove the top as well as the hex screws.