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My weight reduction

320K views 1.1K replies 174 participants last post by  chetrickerman  
Just weighed my car, it came in at 2880 pounds.

I think the only things I have left that I can do for weight loss are the Magnus lightweight front and rear subframes.
DO IT!!!! And let us know if your car handles different or feels stiffer. I was debating that upgrade for the handling characteristics alone.
 
Its less than they quote, its only a little over 12 pounds. The ETS 4" FMIC was over 24 pounds
Do you have any efficiency numbers to quote? Like changes in intake air temperature over your 4inch ets??
 
Let's get something started on custom aluminum uprights. Lots of great cars have companies that make them for Nissan.

I'm talking like uprights with seriously modified geometry. Increased ackerman (adjustable too), serious roll center manipulation, serious caster addition (adjustable too), and a properly revamped camber curve to properly reflect an evo with higher spring rates & reduced roll gradients.

Machine it in aluminum, loose about 5-10 lbs per wheel, and gain a fuck ton of traction in proper suspension geometry.
 
Idea!!

Replace ALL hardlines with titanium hardlines & use only aluminum fittings & flared connections Got the idea from browsing through mnmeuth's fuel cell install & custom fuel line thread.

Outside of that i'm at a loss for ideas. Except maybe to start cutting out large portions of the body & toss in a cage to add back rigidity.
 
question, did you remove both of the metal brackets supporting the intake manifold? You have poly motor mounts too right? Also, all those little metal brackets that the engine harness is fixed to, i assume you removed those.... so how are you securing your harness wires? Are they just dangling?

You mentioned you removed stuff that didn't work.... what didn't work?

sorry if these have been answered already
 
Yes, yes, and yes.

A lot of the harness is secured with zipties close to its original mounting points.

I mentioned I removed brackets and bolts that weren't needed.
Can you chime in on things you felt were needed? Just wanna make sure i don't fuck anythign up.
 
Yes, I do have the phenolic spacer there with the supplied sealant on both sides.
You're using the cosworth spacer? That's made out of a different material than the cheaper torque solutions one (mine is in the mail). I'm not sure a simple bolt upgrade would do the trick. I guess i'll have to see.
 
Question. Your thoughts on the lightweight flywheel? I'm considering it for my sst (fidanza makes a 6 lb flywheel), but am really debating weather or not its worth the expense. 400 bucks is a bit much and i havn't found any reviews from sst guys.

While my engine is out, i'll be attempting some firewall hacking similar to your work. Any idea on how much weight you removed from that?
 
the SST lightened fly wheel isn't used very often at all. There was a guy in Purto Rico I think that used it last year and had some tuning issues that he thought might be related to the lightened rotating mass.

No definitive reviews though.
Well..... here goes nothing...... (just placed an order for the fidanza)
 
I've taken some pics and circled some metal clips/brackets that i'm thinking of removing. Only question is, i'm not sure if these sensors require being rigidly mounted (thinking of knock sensor type sensors).

Let me know if you think it'll be safe to remove circled brackets

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Replace the whole piece with fuel line call it a day...

What year is that off of ?? Your fuel pressure vacuum looks bigger and setup way better then my tiny ass line.. that I super glued fast
2010 SE model. I think i remember hearing that the 2010 SE model's were actually 2011 models, but sold in 2010. Correct me if i'm wrong, anyone.
 
I recommend you don't remove that bracket on the fuel return pipe (first photo, top right circle). It was actually added as part of a safety recall to secure the pipe after they found it to be a potential fuel leak/fireball risk.
There is another bracket exactly like that further down the line. I ended up removing both.

If adding that bracket is part of a recall, why are there drilled and tapped holes in the casting of the manifold & block designated for that bracket? Was that added in the casting post 2008/2009 to rectify that issue? I don't understand this recall, i've never heard of it. Can you elaboratE?
 
Is that shield on the throttle body for heat?
There's some silicon behind that shield. I'm sure heat and corrosion could be a factor in the life of the throttle body, but i said fuck it. It only weighs like 2 oz so if you're worried, it would be best to leave it on. The hair on your head weighs more.
 
Seeing as this is the most comprehensive weight thread on the internet, I've decided to add this information here

Weights:
Stock front motor mount - 1.8 lb
Stock rear engine mount - 3.2 lb
Stock driveshaft /w hardware - 41 lb
Stock SST flywheel - 12.6 lb
Stock driveshaft damper /w hardware - 2.6 lb
Stock dry Motor (no manifolds, no fluids, no accessories) - 258.8 lbs

Boomba Billet front mount - .8 lb
Boomba Billet rear engine mount - 2.2 lb
Bill Englewood Aluminum driveshaft - 26.4 lb
Fidanza/ssp lightweight SST flywheel - 5.8 lb


Total weight i just saved: 26 lbs. I also want to point out that 21.4 lbs of that is rotational inertia, which should be a BIG deal. Full review of the fidanza SST flywheel to come in the next 1-2 months.

Also want to add weighing the stock engine was hard because its so large and i'm not sure if the whole thing was situated on my scale properly. Use that number with a grain of salt.

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Hey chet, i assume you got rid of that huge metal bracket that holds the ECU and a good portion of the engine harness & battery terminal? Would you mind posting a pic of how you've got that whole thing secured?