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Any reason for going with Manley? I have my GSC beehive springs sitting in my living room until my turbo gets here from MAP.

I had the decision GSC or Manley when I was doing my motor.

Decided on GSC... more experience with the valve train and, beehive design, and lower spring seat pressure than the rest. Con is they are pretty much most expensive... I guess you get what you pay for...
 
i had a alot of issues out of the 85lb supertechh duals but the 75lb duals from them have worked fine. i thought about changing them to singles but figure if it is working i should leave it be. Have you checked the bearing clearance the cam as well?
 
Where I am confused is how during WOT is still retards at about 18 degrees even with the cam gears replaced. It was at 35 degrees retarded, so it's an improvement. Why my timing is still potentially off because of springs is surprising.
 
when i was running the 85lb springs at first it just made a little extra noise from the rear acuator area that went away when uplugging the solenoid. then i started loosing idle along with after a run at say autocross after hard excel on sudden lift across the finish it would stall out. the engine had a hard time hitting degree targets. then finally the cam gear cracked. you can get just the spring seat and 1 spring i think that makes them 75 vs 85 lbs through supertech.
 
the supertech setup is only offered in 2 spring pressures so it makes it rather pointless to try to go in to much detail when it could just be looked up by interested parties. the safe bet is just stick with single springs since i have not heard of any of them causing this issue. i suspect at some point that the 75lb ones may cause issues with people running things like 280+ cams.
 
So new update. Today my tuner got a hunch and decided to change out my oil to a thicker oil 10w-40. He ran the car around and guess what, timing is much better! Now exhaust timing is within a couple of degrees.

So the theory is that the exhaust cam gear was the issue all along. After it is was swapped out for a brand new gear the timing was still off by -18 degrees or so at WOT. That was most likely caused by air still being trapped in the gear. Nevertheless I am relieved we have located the issue. We are now swapping the stock cams out back to GSC S2 cams.
 
Discussion starter · #116 ·
So new update. Today my tuner got a hunch and decided to change out my oil to a thicker oil 10w-40. He ran the car around and guess what, timing is much better! Now exhaust timing is within a couple of degrees.

So the theory is that the exhaust cam gear was the issue all along. After it is was swapped out for a brand new gear the timing was still off by -18 degrees or so at WOT. That was most likely caused by air still being trapped in the gear. Nevertheless I am relieved we have located the issue. We are now swapping the stock cams out back to GSC S2 cams.
So you bought both entire cam gear assemblies for $300 from the dealer? Did you install the Manley springs? Does your tuner think the thicker oil helped? Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to get as much info as possible for when I finally tackle this.
 
To answer your questions, we do not install the Manley springs, we kept the duals in. 300 bucks was for the Exhaust cam gear from the dealer. I think the thicker oil helped, but it was flushing out the cam gear that was important.

I saw Hiboost had similar issues until he used some heavy duty engine flush for his motor. It must have also cleared his oil passages and probably flushed out the cam gear(?). Maybe he could comment.

Mivec issues do suck.
 
So my plan of attack when i get the motivation (when it gets too cold to ride the motorcycle).

Disassemble and hot-tank head.
Flush all oil passages in the head.
Replace exhaust cam gear.
Replace cam bearings.
Put the MIVEC filter in.
 
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