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Discussion starter · #21 ·
i have seen some bed in steps mention to NOT come to a complete stop...? whats the story there?
There is a thin burnishing film some brake pad companies use to coat new brake pads. If you come to a complete stop and the rotors are hot, that film will stick to the rotor surface. This will result in a "pulsating" feeling coming from the brakes, most people thing this is their rotors warping, it is in fact a thin deposit on the rotor surface changing the drag tension of the rotor on that one spot.

Bad stuff :yeahthat:
 
Lol no problem and hey at least I did one corner lol
 
thanks for the writeup. i'm gonna change my pads soon!! Where did you buy your pads?
 
Nice write up, too bad I changed my pads on the 9th, this would of helped.
I figured it out though, Brembo pads are easy to change!
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Nice write up, too bad I changed my pads on the 9th, this would of helped.
I figured it out though, Brembo pads are easy to change!
After driving trackjunkies car, I'm certain the HP+ is a leaps and bounds superior pad :D
 
It's not, technically, true. Why do you think you need to resurface your rotors? If you change your pads often enough and your rotors aren't warped or scored you should be ok. I like to lightly sand the rotors after changing the pads to help the bedding process.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
is there a need to resurface the rotor after brake pad replacement? i'm on my stockers going 10k...i should be done with these within 7k miles, so I want to do as much homework as I can....

i've always been taught that a proper brake job includes changing the pads, lubricate all applicable parts, and resurface or replace rotor....but it seems like not many people talk about resurfacing here....anybody care to enlighten me :)
 
What's the best way to gauge brake pad life? I know you can see the pad thickness with the wheel off. How thin is too thin?
Pad thickness is the industry standard where less than 3mm is time to replace. Heat will transfer faster with a thinner pad (from the rotor friction surface to the caliper piston/brake fluid).

is there a need to resurface the rotor after brake pad replacement? i'm on my stockers going 10k...i should be done with these within 7k miles, so I want to do as much homework as I can....

i've always been taught that a proper brake job includes changing the pads, lubricate all applicable parts, and resurface or replace rotor....but it seems like not many people talk about resurfacing here....anybody care to enlighten me
True, ideally new pads should have a new smooth surface to run against. However whether the rotors need to be turned depends on their condition: warpage amount, depth of grooves, lip, hot spots, etc.

Unfortunately the stock rotors don't leave much for clean-up machining - there is a max of 1mm that can be taken off - including wear. So if the surfaces will clean up with 0.020" taken off each side (including wear), then you're good to go. otherwise it's time for new rotors also.

While the worn rotor may be OK (not ideal, but usable) to keep on going, it will probably be too thin after machining.

And since it's not a fifty dollar rotor...
 
yeah i am having rotor issues since putting in some new pads.. either that or its the pads.. Pads have created a generous lip on top and bottom, and i only changed them at 15k... wishing i had just saved up and done a factory pad
 
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